This is a simple step-down low voltage transformer, with mains voltage AC in and 24V AC out. R Terminal – Red Wire. I have tried to plug the W wire into every available terminal to see if it would work. using RTH8500 honeywell wifi . There are two white wires attached to the common side of the transformer and no space to connect the “C” wire. use existing 2 wires for heat contact that were already on old Mercury switch. The cool switch on the furnace is manual for a reason, and it is for running the fan when the furnace is off. Any wire can be used for any purpose. There is nowhere to attach a C wire to on the boiler side. I had the exact same thing – one wire on the C post seemed to run to something on the AC side – maybe the condenser outside? Why scare DIY s? As long as the neutral is tied to ground and is intact there will be no significant voltage on it. E (Y on therm) A smart thermostat offers both…, […] RELATED: Thermostat “C” Wire Explained […], […] Read more about the C-wire here, including why Nest owners aren’t exempt from needing one. the common is white, but there are usually only 2 wires in a thermostat, one way in and one way out. My system has an “extra” blue wire. Comparison: Emerson Sensi ST55 vs. Honeywell Wi-Fi 7-Day Programmable Thermostat (RTH6580WF), a new bunch of wires run between the furnace and the thermostat, or. W2 (Y on therm) You mention a 24v DC adapter??? this allows a automatic control of the furnace to turn the fan on when the heat exchanger is warm enough. My thermostat is three floors away from my boiler, and so running a new cable is a significant effort. amzn_assoc_ad_mode = "auto"; Hi lead wires for primary connections are color coded for easy installation. I recently bought a nest to replace my Honeywell thermostat, but when I take the thermostat off, I just saw a Red “R” wire and blue “C” wire. The remaining terminals should (I am not an a/c technician so I am using deductive reasoning here) control the a/c. . iDevices Thermostat requires a 24V common or ‘C’ wire, which provides continuous power for features like Wi-Fi connectivity and the backlit display. C Terminal – Blue Wire and Two White Wires If no heat, cooling, or fan are required, there is no power flowing through the thermostat. if you are planning on using a electronic thermostat with these functions it will require a battery powered thermostat to allow relays to turn on and off for heat and fan, otherwise it will have to be a energy scavenging thermostat which gets its power by pulsing the heat function on when it needs to regenerate its power, The lower voltage is sent to the push button to engage the chime mechanism. When the circuit is complete, 24V energy will flow continuously. (T), Tan or Gray, outdoor anticipator reset. 2) Since it did work, why not just jumper a wire between the W and C terminals? So I removed it to double check the wiring. It powered up but the heat will not shut off. Sorry about the slow response, sounds like you have a simple heating thermostat with a fan function, My furnace has a heat and cool switch. […]. Keep in mind the red is 24VAC control. I hooked everything up as instructed but could not get Rh to have a higher voltage. Said it must of been a bad nest. Then my Google foo kicked in and brought me here! Power, Can, Transformer. What do I do? Turn off power before attempting any wiring project including “low voltage”. I have no problems with it at all now. wire simply “common” side transformer 24v output ( . If you bridge that break with your body, you’ll get shocked, the severity depending on your impedance vs the impedance of the device you’re now in series with (voltage divider). In my condo, the AC is one of those that is in the ceiling and there is no panel with “C” clearly marked. Which wire would go with which wire? Thank you!! Honeywell 24V AT72D Transformer. I plan to purchase a 120v to 24v AC adapter from Amazon and running additional wire to my new stat. The more I look at this setup, the more I suspect the “R” & “W” wires are also swapped; which a dumb thermostat wouldn’t care but an ecobee might? If the thermostat was installed to code specifications, the white wire is your common, green ground, red heat, blue cooling. This site is incredibly helpful. I have an old Luxaire electric furnace from the early 70s. The ‘new’ Honeywell would not accept 5 wires so I called the company, and was advised that therm. […] power source, supplies power misleading. When I removed the old thermostat, I noticed I did not have a C wire. Most of the time it is caused by a short in thermostat wires. For what I understand, please correct me if wrong, But the heater did not. I jumped the W wire to the C terminal on the new TS. Two wires to relay one on w2 and other one on “R” at the Lyric? You can message your clinic, view lab results, schedule an appointment, and pay your bill. I connected C, G, and Y to the appropriate connectors on the furnace, and voila!… i got heat! I replaced my old thermostat with a Nest 3rd generation. Nothing worked. As promised, here’s an update on my furnace. If you find a C-wire in your furnace, then the other end is probably stuffed into the wall behind your thermostat. wire simply “common” side transformer 24v output ( . Run an additional two wires from the transformer to the thermostat. i am assuming its a mechanical stat not electronic but both can work similar in operation. I programmed my new thermostat but as soon as the boiler fires up, the TS shuts off and power resets. Either way, the instructions are easy to follow and you don’t need any specialized tools. A 24 VAC (volt alternating current) transformer is a step-down type of transformer. amzn_assoc_default_category = "Electronics"; In power transmission, normally the primary side of the transformer is connnected to some ground that is far away, at the generator or at the previous power transformer. Try calling the manufacturer of whichever WiFi thermostat you’re interested in. Thanks! Any help would be appreciated. The C wire closes the circuit and allows continuous flow … Do I simply take the unconnected Blue C wire, and land it at the Com24V screw terminal? The 24v power tap has 2 terminals in one block, one labeled 24v and one com. My wiring had 5+ wires going to the thermostat initially, however only 4 were in use (R, Y, G W). Blue or Black – C – Common wire, may be unused by your existing thermostat. It is quite a good reference document for noise considerations when designing electrical systems. common thermostat troubleshooting honeywell, white-rodgers, lux, robertshaw. Tying into the ground wire could get you electrified plumbing or other consequences. I’m upgrading from a Honeywell Mercury thermostat to a Honeywell wifi 8580. I am also confused at this point. I know I need to connect the blue wire to a C terminal at the furnace side. But I found out the hard way that if the batteries in the thermo die, no more heat (and hence frozen pipes). I want to add a 24v power supply so the geo can work as if it had a C wire. If it doesn’t work properly the heat transfer can’t happen. There is a probably a short in the 24 volt circuit. Again, everything worked. One common culprit is a faulty HVAC transformer. My question is do I connect the 24v to C and Rc, leaving the Rc wire from the AC connected as well or do I leave the Rc wire from the AC disconnected and use the Rc/Rh jumper? The voltage that’s connected to a load allows current to flow through the device and that voltage is present on the neutral. My home is old and unfortunately the breaker box did not label which each switch controls. I know this thread is old, but important since people (including me) still visit this site. I’m going to use a voltmeter to test across R and C for 24v first though. i first found a 24volt DC power(110 to 24 VDC, i had one spare but they are cheap on amazon, less that $10 for plug in 1 Amp wall type.. yes DC power works fine just to power the thermostat) and connect to RC to +24V and C to 0V . On the thermostat the blue wire is connected to the Y terminal. View the changes to our visitor policy » View information for Guest Services » New to MyHealth? I replaced the cheap thermostat with a Honeywell th9320wf5003. A/c does not work. Hi Bill – thanks for your posts. But now it is heating season… He had never seen one before and had no idea how to clean it. Most states have outlawed the old fashioned “mercury blob” thermostat. I only need heat, no AC, heat pumps, etc. ? With ALL THAT in mind, I’m guessing the C-wire is in less than 20% of U.S. homes. (X2), Second stage of Electric Heat on GE/Trane/American Standard. Y Terminal – Yellow Wire and Red Wire But as common is using the same side of transformer as the relay sinks the powers, you could consider it ground and is not power “from” then. The most common application for a 24 VAC transformer is to activate a doorbell chime. I know the RH goes into RC on the thermostat and the RC goes into R on the thermostat. Is your blue wire connected to anything at the boiler/furnace side? You could try a blind guess. I’m looking to do the same thing. Technically, it is possible to run the Nest as is, but you’d be better off buying a $6 24 volt DC adapter on Amazon and plugging it in to a A/C outlet in your apartment. Legs A & B if you will. Homes without would have no reason to run a C-wire, so we’re already down to 40% of the U.S.’s housing stock having any plausible reason to run this wire. The 2 amp fuse was inadvertently blown because I failed to shut off the power supply switch to the furnace before removing the old thermostat. I even tried putting the old stat back on. But I am hesitant because there are already 2 other wires (both black) connected on the C terminal at the furnace. See link above. woke up one morning and it was 82* in the house set to 67 and still running. When I put it back on, I got no current at all to the stat. Two pieces of metal touch, and it stops. That thermostat (battery powered and programmable) works fine. Unlike its competitor the Nest Learning Thermostat, the ecobee3 doesn’t rely on “power stealing” to make up for a lack of a C-wire (read more about that here on ecobee’s site), they just include a power extender kit to make up for the missing wire. the W terminal (often the white wire) will be the thermostats output for a heating call to the furnace sending the 24 volt power back to the furnace to its W terminal.
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